Fly fishing is an intricate game of catching different species of fish through imitating movements of insects to lure fishes. The success of fly fishing depends on many factors. One of the most important factors to consider in fly fishing is the casting of the fly line. Fly casting is all about the right timing and angle precision. To be able to achieve the fly fishing secrets of right and successful casting, it is important to practice it to master the secrets of casting success.

Below are some important guidelines to follow in order to achieve and learn well the fly fishing secrets of casting.

1) Before doing the cast, it is necessary to check the stance. The legs should be shoulder-width in distance from each other and resting comfortable on the ground.

2) The next thing to observe is safety. An angler should wear a broaf-billed cap and sunglasses in order to the eye and head from any injury during the casting. (Remember, we are learning the secrets of proper casting here. We are not experts yet.)

3) Check the grip. The grip on the fly rod should not be too tight, thumb should be at the top and the tip of the rod should pint down. Bend the elbow and lock wrist to ensure that there is control on movements so that it will be smooth.

4) Learn the different style of casting. Two common styles is the Overhead cast and the Forward Cast. In overhead cast, the rod tip is lifted to 2 o’clock position then the rod is accelerated back past the 12 o’clock position. In doing this type of cast, the wrist should be locked and the arm is bended on the elbow to make the rod an extension of the arm. The next style is the Forward cast. The rod is accelerated forward and stopped abruptly between one o’ clock and two o’ clock position. Then the rod tip should be lowered to 2 o’clock and 3 o’clock position when line is straightened to the water. The goal of the cast is to have a straight line in the water with minimal disturbance.

5) Follow and master the instruction above properly through constant practices. It is important to correct common casting problems casting too much line, wrist casting, and not enough energy on pick up, and lines collapsing on back seat in order to achieve fly fishing secrets of successful casting.

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Fly Fishing Secrets for the Novice as well as the seasoned Angler
 by: Brett Fogle

Fly fishing is an exciting and fast growing sport in all over the world, and especially here in the U.S.A. The reasons for the increasing popularity of fly fishing are obvious. Fly fishing is enjoyable, relaxing, and rewarding in many different ways.

Perhaps the most rewarding element of fly fishing is the variety of beautiful natural surroundings in which anglers often find themselves; a secluded stream up in the mountains, a peaceful meandering river deep in the forest, or a tranquil blue lake somewhere out in big sky country. For some, it may be the opportunity to test ones’ individual skill against nature – in an intricate game of cat and mouse (but in this case, man against fish.) These are just some of the compelling reasons why many thousands of people enjoy the challenges of fly fishing every year.

For beginning fly-fishermen, however, learning fly fishing can be difficult. We have compiled this e-book to give anglers, especially new anglers, some guidance on how to get the most out of the exciting sport of fly fishing. While there are many other resources available about fly fishing on the internet, few of them touch on the techniques, tactics and strategies commonly used in fly fishing. If these topics sound interesting, then you’re in the right place because this e-book was written just for you.

We’ll explore in detail the various fish most people fish for, we’ll cover casting basics, how to read the water, how to take care of your gear, how to tie knots, dry flies, and fly lines. We’ll also explore hatches, cover insect entomology and much, much more. In short, this e-book will teach you everything you always wanted to know about fly fishing! (maybe even more than you’ve ever wanted to know)

Fly Fishing: Trout & Their Habitat

Successful fly fishing involves lots of things, including having the proper fly fishing gear, using the right flies, being able to cast correctly, and many more little things that often determine whether a fly fishing adventure is successful or not. However, one thing that many anglers frequently neglect to learn about is the fish that they are fishing for.

A strong knowledge of the various types of trout is of critical importance. Knowing more about the various types of trout that you are fishing for, their habits, tendencies, and characteristics, can help tremendously in improving your catch.

In our next article we have covered the primary types of trout, their senses, and other important traits unique to each variety.

About The Author

Who else wants to pull in a bounty of big fish – Every time! Here’s how to AMAZE your friends (and maybe even make them a little bit jealous) In ‘Fly Fishing Secrets’ we show you how. To get your hands on these amazing insider secrets, Click Here:

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Go Chase The Pike With A Fly

I moved slowly upstream peering intently into the gin clear water, the bright sunshine allowed me to see every pebble, stick and even the minnows in the bottom of the pool. No breeze ruffled the surface. A shoal of bait fish hung close to a weed bed. Nothing moved as I peered intently into the water. The combination of my long peaked cap, and polarised glasses helped me search deep into the flowing water.

I blinked, and then squinted. Did I see a pike? Yes, there it is, I spotted a fin movement, then a tail moved, enough for me to realise I was looking at a pike. The perfect predator. My eyes move slowly up the length of a fish, it must be thirty inches or more in length. My heart beat a little faster as my brain went into overdrive as I computed the angle of the cast, then distance to target. I launched some line, then realised I needed a bit more. I pulled a few more feet from the reel. All the time I was keeping my eyes on the fish. I was the hunter; the hunted is a fish that goes back a few million years. It probably weighs 14lbs It’s there for catching, if I don’t make a mistake.

The fish is moving slowly upstream, I have just one chance. I shot the line, the fly landed with a slight plop, hardly breaking the water surface. The fish moves its head slightly then slowly turns. This is the moment I have been waiting for all morning. I twitched the line imparting life into the fly – a fly that was created in Northern Canada. It’s tied up on a 3/0 Partridge hook using Polar bear hair and a few strands of crystal flash. It’s some six inches long and comes alive in the water when moved.

I made a six inch strip; the pike was off the starting block moving fast towards my fly, creating a bow wave. I gave another quick strip of some three inches. The big one couldn’t resist it, there was a big swirl, a boil. Then the fly had disappeared as the fish turned for the deep water. The strip strike set the hook, his speed and momentum carried the fish skywards, head shaking, gills flared. For a second, perhaps two, I stand spellbound, watching this fighting fury crash back into the water. It’s like an explosion as the water erupts, the ever increasing circles going across the river. After some minutes the fish is bought to hand. I bend down then take the barbless hook from the scissors of the pike’s mouth then watch it swim off slowly.
Cat
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ching A Pike On A fly Isn’t new

In the Diary of A. J. Lane (1843) page 52 He writes: “Pike, and heavy ones too, rise tolerably freely to fly’s dressed very largely & of gaudy peacock feathers, shoe’ be made up on large double or even sets of hooks”.
At the bottom of the page it states “One of the best flies is an imitation of the Sand Martin”.
I think we can forget the last sentence!

In the Badminton Library Fishing by H Cholmondeley-Pennell, Pike & Coarse Fish 1885 page 62 there is mention of fly fishing for pike. On page 95 in The Book of the All-round Angler by Bickerdyke there is a short article on fly fishing for pike. Then do we know the truth behind the Kenmure Monster? Taken it’s said, from Loch Ken by the gamekeeper on a peacock hurl tied on a hook. Isn’t that a fly?

It all shows that fly fishing for pike isn’t new. Though listening to some of the present day anglers who have started to fly fish for pike, it’s something they have discovered! I caught my first pike on a fly made from a birds feather, whipped on a size 4 carp hook with some fine nylon line, then I added some silver paper from a Players cigarette packet along the shank of the hook. It’s very difficult to find anything that’s really new in angling. The hair rig, was used by tunny anglers, the boilie by American carp anglers. Who is to say the various Indian tribes in Canada didn’t use a fly to catch pike.

When writing of flies, we are not talking of small flies, used for salmon and sea trout. Pike flies are sometimes seven or eight inches in length, often tied on a size 6/0 irons.

Some Successful Pike Flies

If you were to take a look in the fly boxes of a few anglers who target the pike, you will discover hundreds of different fly patterns. Just as today’s anglers fishing for rainbow trout, carry several boxes of fly patterns, but only use a dozen flies. It’s the same with us anglers who target the pike. I have several boxes of flies for pike, but for most of my fishing I probably only use a dozen patterns – but with various colour combinations that dozen probably grows to a hundred or more. Most of my pike flies are tied up on Partridge CS43 2/0 to 4/0 or Cox and Rawle uptide 1/0 TO 5/0 A few flies have been tied up on Ade Swier designed hooks.

One of my most successful pike fly patterns is without doubt the Polar fly. It’s tied as follows.
Tail-white Polar bear hair, not synthetic hair, and pearl crystal.
Body- pearl fritz or silver tinsel strip. The wings of white Polar bear hair, again not synthetic hair with pearl crystal hair.
Remarks- Two types of bodies should be tied up, as one will often work when the other doesn’t. I don’t know why this is so but that’s the nature of the beast. This pattern is also excellent for many saltwater species including the bass.

Other patterns are the Polar perch with a tail of Polar hair, a body of gold tinsel with 12lb mono rib. The wings are yellow buck with green buck over tying with black silk. You can add purple crystal hair strands to wing, create barring effect on wing with black permanent pen. A fly pattern I really like is the Red tailed rat. There are many occasions when pike ignore a submerged fly, but will savagely hit a surface fished one. The Red tailed rat is quite simple to tie, with a tail of red buck and red crystal hair. The body is black deer hair, wedge shaped, tying silk is black. At one time I had eyes fixed on these mouse and rat type patterns, but I now feel they are a waste of time and money. All the pike will see is an outline of the red tailed rat as it is worked across the surface. Takes are usually very savage.

A pattern I first used in Canada with great success is the Sally Rand, named after the famous American fan dancer of the 1930’s. The first time I used this pattern was in northern Canada. The lake water was a very strange colour caused by ash, from some huge forest fires that had been burning for several weeks. In fac
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t so bad were the fires, the bush pilots often had difficulty finding the scrub airfield. On a couple of occasions we had to turn back and try the next day. I gave this pattern a simple name of orange marabou. It was on a Canadian trip when the name was changed. An American from Chicago noticed I was using this pattern with some success when others were struggling. After giving him a couple of these flies, he said “You know Martin those flies look like a fan the dancers use”. He then told me of how his father had a fan dancer by the name of Sally Rand to entertain the punters at his booth during the big Chicago show in the 1930’s. Hence the name change.

The tail of this fly comprises two orange marabou left on the quill, with a body of orange marabou with some silver oval, tinsel rib or orange cock hackle, palmered down the body. Wings are four orange cock hackle. Purple crystal hair may be added to the tail and wing. This is a good pattern for coloured water.

Clouser Deep Minnow tying instructions are on page 147. Thread-is 6/0 Chartreuse and White, Eyes-lead painted dark red with black pupils. Wings-are white buck tail on top; chartreuse buck tail underside with pearlescent Krystal Flash over the top. Tie this pattern in various colour combinations.
On page 185 you will find the tying for the Dahlberg Rabbit Strip diver Thread- is 3/0 white, Tail-is white rabbit strip, red flashabou. Collar-Red and white deer hair, Head-is red and white deer hair, Eyes-are yellow 4fi mm solid plastic. As with Clouser Deep Minnows I suggest you tie up a few in various colour combinations.

Lefty’s Deceiver has been around since the early 1950’s. It’s a pattern I always have with me in various colour combinations at all times, both for fresh and saltwater fishing. I well remember sitting with Lefty in his home as he tied up some flies for a Bahamas bonefish trip. Watching his hands working, was pure magic. The man is certainly a genius. The tying for this pattern comes from page 134 of ‘Pike On The Fly’ by Barry Reynolds and John Berryman. Instructions are as follows:
Thread-white and chartreuse, Tail-white buck tail, shank length, inside white neck hackles (2 each side), extending one and a half times shank length, Body-silver tinsel with a collar of white buck tail, extending nearly to tip of tail. Topping-is chartreuse buck tail, as long as collar. Throat-several strands of red Krystal Flash. The head-is Chartreuse thread, lacquered. Eyes Applied with Faber-Castell uni-point marker.

I also have two frog patterns which have proved excellent fish catchers. We all know how pike love weeds, my frog patterns can be fished in the thickest of weeds, without getting caught up. When fishing reed beds I have had pike come a foot out of the water to grab a frog pattern as I pulled the frog up the reed stems..

The first frog pattern I used was made by Kent Sherrington of Burnley, Lancashire. It was made from balsa wood, painted yellow then given a couple of coats of epoxy. The other is made from an Edgewater Popper, colour yellow on a size 4/0 hook. I tie in some near hair to represent the back legs of frog. At the front I use two or three strands of three inches of round rubber hackle. At the front edge of the foam head, I fix two eyes. But as previously stated, I don’t think the pike see these eyes. Finally I always take a few popping bugs, the same as used by saltwater anglers for snook, cobia, kingfish etc. A popping plug or bug creates a lot of noise, gives the impression of something big and injured, certainly something a pike can’t resist.
Rods Reels and Lines

One thing is certain, the rod reel and line outfit you use for river or Stillwater trout fishing won’t be suitable for chucking flies, popping plugs, or bugs and frogs for pike. The lightest rod you can use will be an eight weight, and then only for the smaller patterns when fishing rivers and canals. My advice is go for a nine foot nine or ten weight. The best advice I can give is
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purchase a saltwater model. I have tried many rods over the years; some have been useless, especially in the early days of the 1960’s. Some have done a better job than others. These days I am using the Thomas and Thomas SC series in four pieces with a short fighting butt which I have found most useful, especially when playing a big fish, or lifting a fish from deep water. The SC rods combine graphite technology with tapers that can lift a long line from the water. They work well at casting both short and long distances and they load very quickly, which is most important when you suddenly see a fish moving away. I have used my SC series of rods in fresh and saltwater with lots of confidence. They will be my number one rods in the Persian and Arabian Gulf later this year when I tackle the big cobia and kingfish and the little tunny, off Connecticut, in late October. Any rod that can handle the little tunny will be OK for the pike.

The Tackle Shop stocks a great selection of Fy Fishing combo’s and rods. In your tackle shop you will find several brands of line which will be suitable for chucking big flies for pike. One line will not cover all aspects of pike fly fishing. To get the best out of the sport, you need at least three lines. Cortland lines are my first choice, the nine weight Ghost tip is probably my most used line. I can fish flies from the surface, down to four or five feet, depending on the speed of retrieve. This line comes with a fifteen foot clear tip, which is then built into a floating line, it will also lift cleanly off the water. Two other Cortland lines I use are both sinkers, a medium and fast sink. It’s surprising how often you will use a fast sink line when fishing the big reservoirs and gravel pits. When fishing with a fast sink line I will often use a leader of three feet, perhaps eighteen inches.

Reels for fly fishing are usually simple affairs, for pike fishing all you need is a simple reel. These fish don’t make long fast runs, except on very rare occasions. A Young’s 1500 series fly reel from Masterline International stockist in salmon size will prove quite adequate, either the Y1535 or Y1540 model. If you’re planning to fish the ocean then you need a better quality reel. I have various models of reels from Sage, Loop, Abel, Tibor, Aaron, Richard Carter and JW Young’s Sea Venture. They are all excellent reels, some costing several hundred pounds, designed for saltwater use and well engineered. The British made JW Young’s Seaventure reel from Masterline International stockist, they are a good reel that you can use in confidence.

To buy some of the products I have been talking about try http://the-fishing-shop.com/how.aspx

By: BigBlue

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